Day 167: Dong Il Jang, Los Angeles, California
đź“ŚAPIA Every Day (167) - Dong Il Jang, established in 1979 by Sung Kim, was one of the first Korean restaurants in Los Angeles' Koreatown, an ethnic neighborhood formed in the 1980s. Known for its unchanged menu, the restaurant featured Korean steak tartare and banquet-style grilled Korean barbecue. It also offered Japanese dishes like sukiyaki and teriyaki, honoring its namesake, a sukiyaki restaurant in Seoul founded by Kim's father in 1945. Dong Il Jang became a beloved spot with a nostalgic, 1950s LA atmosphere, featuring dim lighting, red vinyl booths, retro tables, and scripture-adorned wallpaper. Despite its popularity, the restaurant struggled during the COVID-19 pandemic, eventually closing its doors, marking the end of an era for a cultural and culinary landmark in Koreatown.
Roy Kim later assumed management of Dong Il Jang, which became a popular venue for celebrations within the Korean community, amplified by its feature on Anthony Bourdain’s “Parts Unknown” series in 2013. However, their success was disrupted when the pandemic hit, and their transition to takeout services proved challenging. Later that year, Dong Il Jang closed permanently on August 15, 2020. How can we best honor the legacy of Asian American restaurants following their closure and their cultural contributions to Los Angeles’ Koreatown? Additionally, how can we gain a clearer understanding of the impact on small Asian businesses during the pandemic, particularly considering the challenges caused by anti-Asian sentiment?
LEARN MORE:
EATER: Classic Koreatown Restaurant Dong Il Jang Is Closing After 41 Years of Business
Neighborhoods: Koreatown's History as Told Through Its Restaurants
Facebook: Dong Il Jang Restaurant
Inside Edition (YouTube): Restaurant Featured by Anthony Bourdain Closes in Pandemic
Eat Like Bourdain: Anthony Bourdain in Koreatown, Los Angeles: 10 Spots Where Tony Ate
Hmong Association of Washington: The invisible struggle of the Asian American small-business owner
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